This weaving industry is the tradition of Pabna’s rural culture. From the Mughal period, weavers of both Hindu and Muslim religions were involved in the handloom industry of Pabna. Cotton, the main raw material of the loom, was procured mainly from cotton cultivated in the local fertile land. And the cotton here was the best. As a result, the amount of cotton production here increased due to the influence of the Swadeshi movement. According to various records, there were about nine and a half thousand looms in 1923. Later, in the political context of 1947, the trend of handloom industry did not stop. However, the face of the handloom industry changed due to various reasons including partition. Weavers, including many skilled artisans, left the country and went to Upper Bengal. As a result, the success of the textile industry was then subjected to various obstacles due to economic and social competitiveness.
Since pre-Christian times, the textile industry has a reputation in this country, so ancient texts written at different times also find praise of the weaving industry of this country. In Riazus Salatin (Ghulam Husain Salim, 1788) there is a mention of making the famous ‘Pabnai Par’ cloth in Sadullapur, Nischintapur and Aminpur districts.
Netaji Subhas Bose once came to Pabna in 1922. He also visited seven hosiery industries in Pabna. He was fascinated by these industries. Seeing the quality and demand of the products produced by these companies, he termed this industry as the ‘mother’ of the textile industry. Poet Rabindranath Tagore also used the products of hosiery industry in Pabna, genji, saree, lungi, gamcha of Pabna’s weaving industry. At present, there are about 500 hosiery industries in Pabna district. Many workers are employed in these organizations. Genji made in Pabna is now exported to Nepal, India, Bhutan, Malaysia and Singapore through Dhaka.
The life and livelihood of about 15 lakh local people are directly or indirectly involved with the handloom industry of Pabna district. The sarees made here are known nationwide as ‘Pabna Sarees’. The name of ‘Pabna Sari’ is mixed with the existence of traditional Pabna district.
‘ওলো করিস না তুই মন ভারী,
পাবনা থ্যাইকা আইন্যা দিমু ট্যাহা দামের শাড়ী।’
The song of defamation of the arrogant bride is still heard in the mouth of Pabna’s Charan Kabi. In the rural culture of Pabna, such punches tell how much Pabna saree is involved in women’s emotions.
The influence of handloom industry is widespread mainly in rural agriculture and other small scale industries in Pabna and Sirajganj. For decades, the weavers of these districts have been working to maintain the artistic standards of their ancestors. As a result, this handloom industry has been making a special contribution to the economy. The increase in employment of women in the handloom industry is making a significant contribution to the internal economic progress of the district.
Pabna district has been famous for handloom textiles for many decades. Muslin sarees were once made in Sujanagar of Pabna. Although muslin is now extinct, Pabna’s handloom is still very popular in the country and abroad. In addition to Pabna sarees, other sarees, clothes, lungis, chandors, gamchas are still made here.
At present, most of the handloom fabrics are being made in powerlooms. The number of handlooms is decreasing day by day. Dogachhi, Shibrampur, Bhandara, Jalalpur, Natunpara, Gangarampur, Balarampur, Malanchi, Kulunia, Chhondah, Chechania, Jorgachha, Sontala, Kashinathpur, Kaitla of Bera upazila, Patgari and many other areas adjacent to Pabna district town still survive handloom industry.
According to the latest handloom census in Bangladesh, there are a total of 18,573 looms in Pabna district, of which 14,795 are in operation. Besides, about 50,000 looms have been restarted in different areas of the district including Dogachhi, Bharara, Jalalpur, Natunpara, Gangarampur, Balarampur, Malanchi, Kulunia, Khandakerpara, Karigarpara, Chhondah, Chechania, Jorgachha, Sontala, Kashinathpur, Bera, Kaitla, Patgari. Although these looms have been closed for so long, the market demand for Pabna handloom sarees is increasing on the occasion of Eid, Puja and other festivals. However, many of the local industry people think that even from the handloom census survey done 10 years ago, the present handloom palli of Pabna has almost doubled. The number of weavers has also increased.
However, due to the recent increase in the prices of handloom products, including yarn, dyes, many weavers have said that they have stopped handlooms. Weavers claim that the price of dyes and yarn has doubled, but the price of cloth has not increased. As a result, weavers are burdened with huge debts. As a result, weavers are thinking of closing the loom.
Translated by: Ananyo Haider, European University of Bangladesh.
